The Enduring Influence of The Row
By Lauren Payne
Photo The Row
15 years ago, a white T-shirt appeared on a rack at Barneys New York. Shoppers would have seen this shirt, wondered who created it and in lieu of a brand tag, instead only find a simple gold chain.
This very t-shirt became shrouded in mystery and, in hindsight, was fitting having grown from the “passion project” of the equally mysterious Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen - The Row.
From this initial mystery, it took a while for The Row to flow down into the world of street style.
Previously, you’d only ever see The Row on red carpets, or political events (in the case of customer Michelle Obama). Even if someone was wearing the brand, you may not have known right away, because despite being developed in the age of bold fashion and logomania, The Row has never drawn attention to itself.
I grew up with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, not on my TV screen, but on my bookshelf and in my VHS collection. I had stacks of their Two of a Kind books and watched every movie they starred in (and produced). Then, following the release of New York Minute, it seemed as if the Olsens disappeared from the public eye. It wasn’t until I stumbled across an article online that I discovered my childhood idols had stepped away from the spotlight to study at New York University and start a fashion business.
I’d seen pieces from The Row before, after all, the brand was in magazines and splashed across my Pinterest, but it wasn’t until I read the article that I knew the Olsens created the brand.
“We really didn’t want to be in front of it. We didn’t necessarily even want to let people know it was us, in a way.” Ashley recently told i-D. “It was one of those things where it was really about the product, to the point where we’re like, ‘Who could we get to kind of front this so we don’t have to?’ I think, to this day, you’ll see we really put the product first.”
For the last few years, The Row appeared to be the type of brand you’d only see on the elite. It was admired by the fashion-obsessed public, but eye-watering price points (which the Olsens attribute to the fabrics chosen and attention to detail of the garment) separated The Row from the general public. That is, until 2017.
In June 2017, Gigi Hadid wore The Row to the CFDA awards. At this point, an IT girl hadn’t been seen wearing The Row. This moment propelled the brand into the spotlight and started to help it gain traction amongst an audience that otherwise may not have even known The Row existed.
In 2018, The Row’s mid-heel slingback sandals were seen on everyone at fashion week . The sandals became the most sought-after shoe in summer 2018. Net-A-Porter regularly sold out of the style and fast-fashion brands were quick to replicate them at a significantly reduced price point.
Over the last few years, the allure of The Row has grown exponentially. After years of never casting big-name models in their shows, The Row had Gigi Hadid open their Fall 2020 collection and last year, Kendall Jenner started posted an image of herself on Instagram wearing look three of that same collection. The caption read “The Row head-to-toe” and since then, Jenner has regularly been spotted wearing the brand.
Gigi Hadid is an avid supporter of The Row and explained to i-D in June this year, that she feels comfortable in their pieces.
“They want to put out their art without feeling too exposed or too vulnerable or used for the wrong reasons,” she said. “They don’t want people showing up like ‘I’m here for the Mary-Kate and Ashley show.’ They want people to come and respect the clothing…I feel very understood by them, and so I walk their shows with comfort and gratitude because they see me for myself. When I walk for Mary-Kate and Ashley, I don’t feel taken advantage of.”
It’s become clear that even with a lack of traditional advertising and an aversion to following trends, The Row has become a trend.
This isn’t just because of how well their garments fit the body, or because they use high-quality materials and take extra care of how every seam is crafted, but it comes down to the fact that people know they can just put one of their pieces on, without having to think about it and feel protected, comfortable and luxurious. They don’t feel the need to flash a label to feel good about what they’re wearing. Mary-Kate explained that this, to them, is luxury.
“The word luxury is used pretty much everywhere now, but for us, it’s something that makes your life easier. The idea that you could buy something off the rack, put it on your body and it already feels like a part of your wardrobe – that’s luxury. It’s when you don’t even have to think about it.”
It’s become clear that The Row’s impeccable reputation can only improve from here. The brand creates timeless pieces that Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner clearly believe feel good on their bodies and feel comfortable enough to wear regularly.
As Jonah Hill says, “I think you will be safe in 20 years in any photograph where you’re wearing The Row.”
Wearing The Row doesn’t require thought, it doesn’t require hours of styling, or adjustments throughout the day to increase movement. It’s these details, that may seem minor but can really influence an experience with clothing, that will help The Row solidify their name and stand the test of time.